May 12, 2024 – When people dream of China, they envision the Great Wall or Shanghai’s skyline. Few consider Jiangxi – and that’s precisely why I fell in love with this overlooked province. Over 10 days, I uncovered villages suspended above clouds, rivers glowing like jade, and hospitality that felt like coming home. Forget the crowds; this is where China’s soul still whispers through ancient cobblestones.
My journey began when a local friend scoffed: “You foreigners only know Jingdezhen’s porcelain.” She handed me a hand-drawn map leading to real Jiangxi – where waterfalls cascade into abandoned mining lakes, and farmers still plow fields with water buffalo. What followed was the most predictable extraordinary adventure of my life.
The Unexpected Itinerary
- Days 1-2: Wuyuan County – San Yan Bridge & Longwei Village
- Day 3: Huangling’s “hanging village” (without the tourist hordes)
- Days 4-5: Wangxian Valley – China’s real-life “Avatar” mountains
- Day 6: Dexing Copper Mine’s surreal turquoise lakes
- Days 7-8: Longnan’s 400-year-old Hakka fortresses
- Days 9-10: Jingdezhen’s ceramic workshops (beyond the tourist track)


Longnan: Where Time Stopped
The Hakka roundhouses (tulou) of Fujian get all the attention. But in Longnan, I entered Yanyi Fortress – a 14-meter-tall stone stronghold where families still live behind 1.4m-thick walls. Elderly Mrs. Wu showed me bullet holes from the Japanese invasion: “Our walls protected 800 people in 1942.” That night, I slept in a watchtower converted to a guestroom (¥120), listening to rain patter on Qing Dynasty tiles.
Cultural Tip: Bring small gifts – I traded Australian tea for Mrs. Wu’s pickled bamboo shoots recipe.
Jingdezhen: Beyond the Vases
Skip the crowded Ceramic Museum. At 740 Factory – a communist-era complex swallowed by vines – young artists work in crumbling kilns. Potter Zhang Ying let me sculpt clay beside her: “We scavenge materials from dumpsters. Perfection is overrated.” My lopsided cup now holds toothbrushes in Sydney, a reminder that beauty lies in flaws.
Workshop Costs: 2-hour classes from ¥80 | “Ceramic graveyard” visits free (tip artists)
The Bittersweet Truth
Jiangxi isn’t perfect. Buses vanish after 6PM, and few locals speak English. But when Li Wei – a farmer I met at San Yan Bridge – mailed me pressed tea leaves months later, I wept. This province gifts you something rare: authenticity. You won’t find it on Instagram, but in steamed buns shared on rainy porches, in the calloused hands guiding yours through inkstone rivers, in the silence of a copper mine glowing like stolen heaven.
Total Cost Breakdown:
- Accommodation: ¥1,200 (homestays & guesthouses)
- Food: ¥800 (street food & family meals)
- Transport: ¥1,100 (buses, taxis, one emergency motorbike hire)
- Activities: ¥400 (rafting, workshops, entry fees)
- Total: ~¥3,500 (€450/$480 USD)
“They say Jiangxi has no ‘wow’ sights. They’re wrong. The wow is in the wrinkled smile of a grandma handing you her last tangerine. The wow is realizing you’ve found China’s best-kept secret – and hoping it stays that way.”
Next Time: I’ll chase Jiangxi’s autumn foliage in Wugong Mountains and the “Rainbow Terraces” of Jinzhai. But first – to mail Li Wei some Australian honey for his tea.



Wuyuan: Beyond the Postcards
At San Yan Bridge, I witnessed something miraculous: water buffalo grazing where a reservoir usually drowns the 18th-century stone arches. Local farmer Old Zhang laughed: “You’re lucky! Last week it was fish swimming through those arches.” For ¥0 entrance fee, I wandered through meadows that felt like China’s answer to the Scottish Highlands.
Pro Tip: Visit between October-March when the reservoir recedes. GPS coordinates: 29.3865° N, 117.7852° E
In Longwei Village, Mrs. Chen taught me to pan for “dragon’s tail inkstones” in the jade-colored river. “Tourists pay ¥500 in shops,” she winked, “but the real treasure is getting muddy with us!” That evening, her family fed me qīngmíng guǒ (glutinous rice dumplings) while fireflies danced over tea terraces.
Hidden Gem | Best Time | Cost | Insider Hack |
San Yan Bridge | Oct-Mar (dry season) | Free | Bring waterproof boots |
Longwei Village | Apr-Jun (tea harvest) | ¥50 homestay | Join inkstone panning |
Shangtan Bamboo Rafts | Sunset (18:30) | ¥35/person | Negotiate directly with boatmen |
Wangxian Valley: China’s Real Fantasy World
Most visit Wangxian Valley for daytime photos. Big mistake. At dusk, when ¥145 entry tickets drop to ¥60, the canyon transforms. Lanterns ignite along cliffside walkways like fallen stars, and the “Immortal’s Banquet” light projection dances across waterfalls. I stayed at Auntie Li’s Homestay (¥180/night) where her grandson taught me to make sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves.
“At 2AM, I climbed the emergency staircase past ‘No Entry’ signs. Below me, the valley slept – just moonlight on ancient rooftops and the whisper of the Qingxi River. This is the China guidebooks never show you.”
Dexing’s Unearthly Beauty
Few foreigners find Dexing Copper Mine’s tailings lake. The water glows Caribbean-turquoise from mineral runoff – toxic yet mesmerizing. Local photographer Zhao took me to his secret viewpoint: “Government says ‘no photos,’ but how can we hide something this beautiful?” We sipped báijiǔ (sorghum wine) as drones captured the alien landscape.

Longnan: Where Time Stopped
The Hakka roundhouses (tulou) of Fujian get all the attention. But in Longnan, I entered Yanyi Fortress – a 14-meter-tall stone stronghold where families still live behind 1.4m-thick walls. Elderly Mrs. Wu showed me bullet holes from the Japanese invasion: “Our walls protected 800 people in 1942.” That night, I slept in a watchtower converted to a guestroom (¥120), listening to rain patter on Qing Dynasty tiles.
Cultural Tip: Bring small gifts – I traded Australian tea for Mrs. Wu’s pickled bamboo shoots recipe.
Jingdezhen: Beyond the Vases
Skip the crowded Ceramic Museum. At 740 Factory – a communist-era complex swallowed by vines – young artists work in crumbling kilns. Potter Zhang Ying let me sculpt clay beside her: “We scavenge materials from dumpsters. Perfection is overrated.” My lopsided cup now holds toothbrushes in Sydney, a reminder that beauty lies in flaws.
Workshop Costs: 2-hour classes from ¥80 | “Ceramic graveyard” visits free (tip artists)
The Bittersweet Truth
Jiangxi isn’t perfect. Buses vanish after 6PM, and few locals speak English. But when Li Wei – a farmer I met at San Yan Bridge – mailed me pressed tea leaves months later, I wept. This province gifts you something rare: authenticity. You won’t find it on Instagram, but in steamed buns shared on rainy porches, in the calloused hands guiding yours through inkstone rivers, in the silence of a copper mine glowing like stolen heaven.
Total Cost Breakdown:
- Accommodation: ¥1,200 (homestays & guesthouses)
- Food: ¥800 (street food & family meals)
- Transport: ¥1,100 (buses, taxis, one emergency motorbike hire)
- Activities: ¥400 (rafting, workshops, entry fees)
- Total: ~¥3,500 (€450/$480 USD)
“They say Jiangxi has no ‘wow’ sights. They’re wrong. The wow is in the wrinkled smile of a grandma handing you her last tangerine. The wow is realizing you’ve found China’s best-kept secret – and hoping it stays that way.”
Next Time: I’ll chase Jiangxi’s autumn foliage in Wugong Mountains and the “Rainbow Terraces” of Jinzhai. But first – to mail Li Wei some Australian honey for his tea.
Those turquoise mining lakes look surreal! Is it really safe to visit Dexing Copper Mine? Planning my trip for October and this is now on my must-see list!
@WanderlustJules Re: Dexing safety – The water contains heavy metals so NO swimming/wading. View from Zhao’s spot is safe though! Local authorities have increased patrols since my visit – go at dawn for clearest views + fewer officials.
Thank you for the homestay tips! ¥180/night at Auntie Li’s sounds perfect. Do they speak any English? Traveling solo and my Mandarin is… well, nonexistent 😅
@MountainMama42 Auntie Li’s family speaks minimal English but they’re wonderfully patient! Download Pleco dictionary app – we communicated through translation + gestures. They’ll teach you to wrap lotus rice which needs no words!
Just returned from Longwei Village thanks to your coordinates! Panned for inkstones with Mrs. Chen’s family – got SO muddy but found a small stone! They refused payment but we left ¥200 for their kindness. Question: Are the Qingming Guo dumplings seasonal?
Spent 3 days at 740 Factory after reading this! Zhang Ying let me fire my lopsided cup in their kiln. Heads up travelers: The “ceramic graveyard” has moved 500m west due to construction. Still magical though!