September 15, 2023
Yellow River whispers through barren landscapes as I arrive in Zhongwei, where the desert meets water in a miraculous embrace. My Ningxia adventure begins at黄河宿集 (Yellow River Retreat), a cluster of boutique民宿 that feels like stumbling upon a Moroccan mirage in China’s arid northwest. After months of dreaming about this place featured in “Dear客栈”, reality surpasses Instagram filters.
The retreat’s adobe architecture blends seamlessly with the terrain – rammed earth walls echoing ancient villages, courtyards filled with jujube trees, and that iconic turquoise pool shimmering against the ochre backdrop. I’m staying at @南岸中卫度假酒店 (Nan’an Resort), where my ￥1,300/night desert-chic room comes with heated floors, organic toiletries, and a terrace overlooking the Ming Dynasty长城 ruins. Pro tip: Book 3 months ahead!
September 16
Desert revelations at Tengol Resort. A 30-minute drive from Zhongwei Airport transports me to what looks like Lawrence of Arabia meets Blade Runner. This newly opened desert sanctuary (￥899/3 nights with meals!) features futuristic pods with private plunge pools and 270° windows framing endless dunes. My “Mars Habitat” room includes:
- 24/7 butler service
- Stargazing telescope
- Traditional Ningxia welcome fruits
- Xixia craft beer minibar
At sunset, I join the camel caravan – ￥150 for an hour-long sway through apricot-gold sands. Later, the astronomy workshop reveals constellations invisible in city skies. Pro tip: The 25m heated pool is divine after sandboarding!
September 18
Yellow River immersion back at黄河宿集. Morning begins with farm activities – collecting still-warm eggs from happy chickens, feeding alpacas named Cloud and Mountain. The retreat’s communal kitchen serves Ningxia’s culinary treasures:
| Dish | Description | Price (￥) |
| Hand-pulled lamb | Tender pasture-raised mutton | 98 |
| Eight Treasure Tea | Wolfberries, red dates, rock sugar | 38 |
| Sand pot fish | Yellow River carp baked in clay | 128 |
Afternoon finds me at @大乐之野 (Lost Villa) for their famous 298/person poolside afternoon tea – rose petal cakes served on Berber rugs with mountain views. Later, I hike the restored长城 section as swallows dart over the caramel-colored river.
“In Ningxia’s silence, you hear two heartbeats: your own, and the desert’s ancient pulse.”
September 20
银川旅居生活 (Yinchuan slow living). Trading desert drama for city rhythms, I rent a 65m² apartment in Yuehai New World (￥1,500/month). Mornings begin at Haibao morning market bargaining for:
- Fresh goji berries (￥35/jin)
- Hand-shaved noodles (￥12/bowl)
- Jinhua yogurt (￥7/10 packs)
Yinchuan’s green spaces astonish – 85% vegetation coverage in this “City of Lakes”. I cycle around阅海 Park, watching fishermen cast nets as herons patrol reed banks. Evening finds me at Nanguan Mosque’s night market nibbling yangrou paomo (lamb stew with bread crumbs).
September 23
Practical magic. Before departure, reflections on Ningxia essentials:
- Transport: Rent a car (￥300/day) for desert flexibility
- Sun protection: UV index hits 11 – hats mandatory!
- Budget: ￥4,000/week covers luxury stays and feasts
- Cultural gem: Helan Mountain rock carvings near Yinchuan
As my flight ascends, the Yellow River curls like a jade ribbon through arid plains. Ningxia taught me this: in China’s forgotten northwest, the quietest places hold the loudest magic. From desert nights under galactic swirls to Hui Muslim breakfasts in Yinchuan alleys – this is the China beyond postcards, waiting with open arms and endless sky.
Your photos are breathtaking! How much did the camel ride cost? I’m planning a trip next spring and want to budget properly.
Thanks, DesertDreamer42! The camel ride was ¥150 for an hour – totally worth it for the sunset views. Spring is perfect; just watch out for sandstorms!
I’m obsessed with黄河宿集! 😍 Did you find any hidden costs at Tengol Resort? The ¥899 deal sounds too good to be true. Also, how was the food?
Hi RiverLover99! No hidden costs – meals were included and delicious! Try the hand-pulled lamb. Just book early; spots fill up fast. The desert views are surreal!
OMG, the pool at Nan’an Resort! 😲 How crowded was it? I hate packed places. Also, any tips for avoiding tourist traps in Yinchuan?
GlampingGuru77, the pool was serene – not crowded if you go mid-week. For Yinchuan, skip the big malls; Haibao market is authentic and cheap! Avoid weekends for fewer crowds.
Is ¥4,000/week realistic for luxury? I’m on a tight budget. Also, any must-try street foods? Your post made me hungry! 😋
BudgetTraveler88, yes! Stick to local eats like yangrou paomo (¥15/bowl) and goji berries. Rent a car to save on tours. You can do it for less if you skip some luxuries!